FOLLDAL: Bacalao every day! It’s no exaggeration to say that Sissel Opshaug, the manager of Primar bacalao factory, has a true passion for the dish. In fact, she eats bacalao for lunch every single day! -It might sound unbelievable, but my amazing colleagues can vouch for it, she says with a laugh.
Situated in the mountain village Folldal, at the foot of Rondane National Park, lies Primar. It is Norway’s largest bacalao factory - despite its distance from the ocean (280 kilometers from Ålesund, the country’s “clipfish capital”). The story about the factory in the mountain is a story of tradition, resilience, guts and innovation.
A Culinary Tradition Rooted in Viking History
Norwegian bacalao (from the Spanish word for cod), is traditionally a flavorful dish crafted from salt cod, olive oil, stewed tomatoes, garlic, shallots, and potatoes. One of Norway’s most distinctive and beloved recipes, this hearty stew carries a fascinating history.
Bacalao traces its origins to salted cod introduced to Basque sailors by the Vikings around 1000 AD. Known to the Vikings as "stockfish," this preserved fish had been a dietary staple for ages. When dried, it was a smart thing to bring on board for the Vikings! Then, its protein content skyrockets to nearly 80%. The high-protein, long-lasting food was essential for the Vikings when they went on their voyages.
Across Europe, salted cod goes by many names. In Portugal, it is affectionately known as amigo fiel —"faithful friend"— a nod to its significance in their cuisine. In fact, the Portuguese are said to have over 1,000 ways of preparing it! In France, it’s called morue salée. Italians use terms like merluzzo, baccalà, or even stockfish, echoing the Viking name.
Bacalao is a favorite on dinner tables across the world to this very day (perhaps especially in Portugal, Spain and Latin America).
And in Folldal, they make it ready-to-eat – which a lot of Norwegians are happy about. Today, Primar’s products are sold across Norway in major chains like Norgesgruppen, Coop, and Rema 1000. The company holds 78% of the fresh bacalao market, a testament to its customer trust.
Primar’s flagship product, Ekte Bacalao Originalen, remains Norway’s most popular bacalao. It’s made without preservatives or artificial additives, and Sissel’s vision has been clear all the way: to produce bacalao that tastes like homemade, using high-quality ingredients and traditional methods.
-Today, the top-selling stores move an impressive 4,000 to 5,000 kilograms of bacalao annually, Sissel explains.
-Our bacalao ranks as Norway’s 10th best-selling ready-made dish by volume and is by far the leading fresh, ready-to-eat seafood option, with annual sales exceeding 600 metric tons, she says.
The Family Recipe that Started it All
The bacalao journey of Primar began way back - between 1918 and 1920 in Ålesund. Sissel’s grandmother worked as a housekeeper for Spanish Consul Lauritz Devold, who shared his own recipe for bacalao. The dish became a family favorite. Decades later, Sissel’s father, Kjell Opshaug, turned the recipe into a commercial venture, launching Norway’s first fresh, ready-to-eat bacalao in Oslo in 1997.
In 2007, Kjell needed a new cooking kettle for his production. His search led him to a defunct dairy in Folldal. Instead of just buying the kettle, he purchased the entire dairy and relocated the business. By 2009, when Primar faced bankruptcy due to the collapse of its largest customer, his daughter Sissel stepped in. A trained economist, she took the plunge, left her corporate job and moved to Folldal to save the family business.
What began as a temporary two-year plan turned into a lifelong commitment, especially after a random fishing trip introduced her to her future husband, a local farmer in Folldal. Today they live happily at the farm with their little daughter and a stunning view into Rondane National Park.
Building a Legacy
Under Sissel’s leadership, Primar has grown from a struggling three-person operation to a thriving enterprise with 14 employees. The move from Oslo to Folldal has been pretty smooth, Sissel says.
-The advantage was that we acquired excellent facilities here in Folldal and took over skilled, dedicated employees from the former dairy. They brought extensive experience and strong routines in food production. Initially, the longer transport distances compared to Oslo posed a challenge, but this gradually resolved as production volumes increased.
The business has grown steadily. In 2019, Primar introduced Ekte Bacalao Sterk Jalapeño, a spicier version with bold flavors of garlic, paprika, and jalapeño. This was followed in 2022 by Ekte Bacalao Hvit Variant, featuring a creamy white sauce with hints of garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, and black olives.
But Primar’s innovation doesn’t stop at fish. Inspired by local traditions and ingredients, the company developed Viltgryte fra Røros-traktene, a hearty wild game stew featuring ground meat (locally known as “hakk”) from elk and reindeer. Another standout product is their byggotto, a Nordic twist on risotto, made with barley from Tynset’s Dyrk Mølle.
Primar is also dedicated to showcase the flavors of Norway’s mountain region. The company sources vegetables like carrots, potatoes, and onions directly from local farmers, peeling and preparing them in-house to ensure freshness and authenticity.
The Future of the Bacalao Adventure
Looking ahead, Sissel is confident that Primar’s best days are still to come. With a growing product line, unwavering dedication to quality, and deep roots in the Folldal community, the bacalao adventure is far from over.
-The goal is to increase sales of the two dishes we already offer and perhaps develop additional healthy, flavorful meals – primarily using Norwegian ingredients, Sissel says.
-Having established and built the market for the ready-made bacalao dish, thereby raising awareness of salt cod, we hope to achieve similar success with our locally sourced wild game stew.
And finally, does the Bacalao expert have any tips for those eager to explore the dish?
-The secret lies in the combination of quality ingredients. What’s great is that you can add your personal twist, for instance, by serving bacalao with arugula, olives, and balsamic vinegar, Sissel says with a smile.
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